5 things I’m grateful for today: 1) every French teacher, Yoga teacher, and teacher of anything I know, who has ever touched my life. 2) thai tiger balm 3) machete sharpeners 4) my rip curl rash guard 5) fresh coconut milk from the tree outside my cabana

Costa Rica: Day 3

8:00 am- woke up this morning a bit groggy & violently scratching my left wrist. I looked down to find I had 2 rather large, somewhat scary looking mosquito bites.  I looked UP to find that the very romantic looking mosquito net that had been wrapped around my bed had somehow been pushed off to the side.  I must’ve had a tumultuous nights’ sleep to cause such disarray… (which makes sense, since I vaguely recall a dream about being chased by a giant, menacing SoyJoy bar).  I also remember, somewhat cavalierly NOT applying bug spray last night.  As I sit up, I start scratching my forearm… I look down, and even without the aid of my contacts, I can make out at least 20 bites from wrist to elbow.  Perfect.  As I leave my cabana to go machete my breakfast of coconuts and starfruit, Jonathan (the tall handsome resort owner) must notice even more bites because he looks at me and slyly says “ahhhh you must be very sweet!”.  Excellent. Mosquitos love me.  I’ll add them to the list which already includes pervy geriatrics in flourescent speedos, and greasy european tourists who always seem to resemble french pedophiles.

Fortunately, my new British friend Chris (the hilarious half of the British couple I met yesterday) is at breakfast and has some tiger balm he acquired in thailand, where they SWEAR by it for mosquito relief.  I slather it on, and after the initial burning sensation (worrisome) I start to feel a cooling relief (pleasant).  After Jonathan gives me some pointers on sharpening and effectively wielding a machete (FYI… These pointers include how to get one home to LA in my checked luggage) I sit down again to find that Jamie and Katie (the supermodel half of the British couple I met yesterday) have joined for breakfast, and we converse about our journeys in Mal Pais.  Katie laughs as I explain how I have developed the bizarre habit of inadvertently speaking to the locals in a strange fusion of Spanish, English and French (the language I studied but never perfected in high school).  ’Franglish’, you might call it. I actually contemplated taking snapshots of people’s faces as they try to decipher my Franglish.  I suspect this would make an interesting coffee table book.

7:00pm- after sheathing my machete this morning,  Jamie and I headed to what has become our own private yoga studio out in the open air between the pool and the jungle.  We use Jamie’s iPhone to rock out to ‘Mike Snow’ and ‘Florence and the Machine’ as we Vinyasa our little hearts out.  Sweaty and serene, we dive into the pool to cool down before biking to St. Theresa for our first surfing lesson.  On our cycling journey into town, we are serenaded by a un-ending chorus of “Hola Chicas” and “Muy Bonito” and…. Some other ‘salutations’ which I couldn’t understand because I’m QUITE sure ‘Dora the Exolorer’ never said them.

When we arrive at the surf shop, we meet our fearless leader. LoLo.  Now….. It is nearly impossible for me to describe in words, or even photos, the sheer and sublime AWESOMENESS that is LoLo.  For starters- he is a Frenchman who lives in Costa Rica, so he TOO speaks something along the lines of Franglish, and I instantly feel we are kindred spirits.  LoLo also speaks so rapidly and with such a thick accent, that you must be quite quick-witted to follow anything at all he is saying. personally… I love this. AND i love that he named his son Neo- after the Matrix.  LoLo is incredibly tan, and has hair like Richard Simmons. If Richard Simmons never used conditioner and was violently electrocuted.  LoLo says this helps protect his brain in case his board ever hits him in the head.  and with that…. We hop in his SUV and drive 20 min. away so we can surf Hermosa Beach, which is renowned as one of the ‘Top 10 Most Beautiful Beaches’ in the world.  When we arrive, I understand why.  First we have to carry our boards through the jungle (true story) to Reach the surf.  When we emerge, I am standing on the pristine white sand of the wide expanse of the most stunning beach I have ever seen.  It is So reminiscent of LOST, i am quite sure that, at any moment, ‘The Others’ are going to come running out of the jungle to ambush us.  But they don’t.  Instead I turn around to see that LoLo has slathered on so much SPF, that his face is literally white, in humorous contrast to his over tanned body. KoLo is also SUCH a Bad-Ass, that he teaches surfing in a sunhat… Which, in the 3 hours we spend in the ocean, never once falls off. LoLo is basically a surfing ninja.  While listening to him explaining ‘Board Safety’ and ‘take off’ techniques, I am ceaselessly amused that LoLo (in Franglish) refers to toes as ‘fingers’…..  ”Don’t put tout your weight en your fingers, bueno?”.  I love this guy.

Surfing is such a fascinating experience.  At any moment, you could be absolutely destroyed by the power of the Sea.  As I walk into the surf, I look up and see birds of prey circling over our heads.  I decide not to take this as an omen of impending doom, and I head directly into the Sea.  I begin my first take-off and immediately wipe-out, but excitedly turn around for more.  My third attempt, i get up and make it shore.  Before long, I am not simply standing on a board…. But actually riding on the sea to LoLo’s cries of “Allez Elise!!!!” “Voila!” “Very Tres Buena!!!!”

Now LoLo… is an absolutely Fabulous surfing instructor.  The best.  As a (Yoga) teacher myself, I am very aware of the difference between being a talented practitioner, and a gifted teacher.  I’ve been extremely fortunate in my Yoga practice over the years to have learned from so many talented teachers…. Many of whom never demonstrated a single pose.  I understand that in Yoga, sometimes the teachers with the most impressive asana abilities physically, understand little about teaching others, and even less about the true meaning of Yoga.  Teaching is a unique talent. LoLo… Has this talent. Yes… He gives excellent cues on how to establish and improve your technique.  Moreover, He gives you the tools you need to truly become a surfer. Balance, knowledge, position, breath, ease. most importantly…. LoLo teaches you to read the Sea.  To understand and respect it.  When he was teaching me, I felt- with every molecule of my being- that his sole purpose is to share his passion for surfing with beginners.  To make us love it as much as he does.  To open up- not just our bodies- but our hearts and minds and souls to this astounding world he lives in.  A world we might otherwise merely pass through, unaffected.  He wants us…. To fall in love with Surfing.  And today…. Out in the open ocean…. Somewhere between sunset and twilight…… I fell in love.

Today I began a trip around the world. Not because I’m searching for something I’ve lost… Or because I want an escape from “real life”… Not even because I am literally & metaphorically embarking on a brand new phase of my life. I am traveling simply for the Joy.

I want to be carried on an epic adventure of beauty & culture. I want to take an exciting journey into the unknown, and find out what might be waiting there for me. I want to discover. To learn. To experience. To grow…. And to breathe. I want to be open to any and all experiences, and to let them touch my heart and my soul. I want to take a GIANT step into the World, and see what it’s all about!

Today… I took my first step on a journey that will take me to Costa Rica, Isla Mujeres, Hong Kong, Thailand, Bali, Australia, and New Zealand. Today… I begin this journal with: “Costa Rica- Day 1″.

I am traveling with my friend Jamie, who (interestingly) was the first person I met after I took another giant step into the World 5 years ago when I moved to L.A. we land in San Jose airport in a frenzy, because our flight is an hour and 12 minutes late, which means we have missed our connecting flight to the coastal surfing community of Mal Pais. There are no more flights out this afternoon, so it is suggested we stay in San Jose & fly out in the morning. Now… While I’m sure parts of San Jose are quite lovely indeed.. The holiday inn near the airport is not EXACTLY how we envisioned beginning our epic adventure through the rain forests of Central America. So… We decide instead to see some of this gorgeous country by taking a car, to a ferry, to an ATV to reach our resort in Mal Pais. This means our 20min flight, has become a 6 hour cross- country escapade… But even after 10 hours of airports & planes, we are game for the challenge!

Our driver Alex is jovial & helpful, and even jokes by teaching us some useful spanish phrases for Americans such as “where is the nearest Denny’s?” (hilarious). Alex speaks unbroken English, and when his cell phone rings, it plays “Aerosmith”. This cracks me up.

As we drive on, we pass a car which has broken down on the side of the road, and I notice the first major difference from Los Angeles. I do not see a man wearing Ed Hardy & texting on his cell phone while waiting for AAA. I see a man underneath his car, fixing it himself as his 6 year old daughter passes him the appropriate tools for the job.

Alex starts to step on the gas, as we are cutting it close to catching the LAST ferry out for the night, and with our luck making connections SO far, we figure we MAY not be able to rely on good kharma to get us there in time. We make it with 3 minutes to spare, and as I am dashing for the Boat, I am sincerely wishing I did not pack so many cute pairs of cargo pants b/c my backpack feels as though it may crush my clavicle if left to it’s own devises.

By some miracle, we board the ferry in time to witness the most spectacular sunset. The air is heavy & humid, but somehow…. Not sticky or hot. The breeze was perfection, and I got lost in a mediative trance of loveliness, as I witness the undiluted beauty of nature. On the 2 hour ride across the ocean, we see mountains and islands, and clouds that catch the twilight in a manner that cannot be described in words. We see fishermen and pelicans, and before long I feel as though my mind has cleared, and my body has decompressed. I breathe in the sweet evening air, and meditate on gratitude.

When we arrive on the peninsula, we are whisked away in an ATV by Alex’s friend Luis, who has a sign which reads “Jamie + Elice”, and who has been designated to carry us on the remainder of our journey. We hop in excitedly, and off we go! Along the way, I notice another difference from L.A. Every house we pass- without exception- has the front door wide open. there are no TVs on, and families are conversing and playing games on porches. This way of life seems somehow refreshing… To live without locks and bolts and 97 inch screens. A way of life that seems fully based on defining families and  enjoying the moment. I love this.

Now- we were informed that Mal Pais is “off the beaten path”, but we were in for a bit of a surprise when the pavement became a dirt road, the dirt road became a trail, the trail became 2 tire tracks, and the tire tracks disintegrated into a barley perceptible path through the jungle. the vehicle was bouncing up and down and winding around bends for over an hour before we finally drove down the coast and came upon The secluded little private resort we booked online. It was…. In a word… Paradise! The pictures online made it look luxurious, but I had been convinced that at $40 a night each, it couldn’t live up to the expectations.

It FAR exceeded them! Our private cabana has it’s own hammock and the deluxe bathroom is open air, so I could see the stars as I showered off the long trip. Jamie and I were famished, so we went directly to the restaurant which is poolside under the stars. Here we were served fresh vegetables & fruits, which somehow taste better and richer than their American counterparts. We then ate the catch of the day, which was so fresh it was practically still swimming. To wash down all this island deliciousness I had an incredible local concoction that was simply fresh pineapple and crushed ice. No sugar. No additives…. Just divinity in a glass.

We went directly to the pool for a dip where I laid on a floating bed & stared at the night sky. It was here that I noticed a final stark difference from L.A…… The night sky. here in this secluded paradise…. Away from the big city, headlights on the 405 and smog…. The ebony sky looked like a gateway to another universe. I laid floating in awe. Enjoying the hypnotic effect of the dazzling stars. It takes a little time to develop the eyes to see this sky. First…. You are overwhelmed by the complete darkness of the night, and then stunned by the contrasting brilliance of Saturn, and the most prominent stars.

But then…. If you relax your vision and stare into the darkness with faith… more of the universe begins to reveal itself. Gradually… You begin to notice thousands of specks of light filling the darkness… Clusters of constellations and shooting stars passing so quickly that if you blink, you’d miss them. And all of a sudden, it seems as though something millions of light years away, is actually within your grasp.